Topic: Honey Production/Supering and taking off honey crop
Honey Production
Add Supers before the nectar flow begins
For the commercial honey producer, any day
lost adding supers to hives bringing in a nectar crop from the field is money
down the drain.
Add Supers before the nectar flow begins Add
Supers before the nectar flow begins
I guess I have said this enough! You can only extract
what the bees store away in your honey supers and by supering you provide the
room necessary for the bees to store away the honey they gather as nectar and
provide room to prevent swarming.
Having enough supers on hand is a challenge for many
beekeepers. Commercial beekeepers handle this in many different
ways. One can have a supply of four or five supers for each hive in
inventory or have only two or three on hand for each hive.
- One can put them on all at once . Just
remember, that if the bees do not fill the boxes, you will have a
considerable amount of labor involved in collecting empty or partly filled
boxes when the crop is harvested.
- One can put on several to begin with and then remove
honey supers as they are filled, replacing them with empty supers,
extracting the crop and returning supers as needed.
- One must always have extra supers on hand ready to use
if needed.
- If bees are moved from crop to crop, honey supers are
generally removed before any move is made and thus the beekeeper must either
be extracting the crop as it is removed before the move -- moving the
hive as a complete unit with boxes for the brood chamber and maybe one
honey super; or store the honey crop until time can be found to extract
it. In either case, extra supers are needed to place on hives
when they reach the new location.
How do you know if there is a nectar/honey flow
beginning?
- Depending on the area where you keep bees, the season,
weather factors, etc. honey bees will begin to gather nectar/pollen just as
soon as temperatures are about 60 degrees and some plants/trees are
producing nectar/pollen. Much of this early flow comes from trees such
as Maple, Willow, etc. The bees use this much needed nectar and pollen
to feed young larvae and thus build hive populations. As long as
nectar and pollen can be found, the bees will be humming with
activity. The beekeeper will see bees going to and from the hive in
considerable numbers. Arriving bees will be loaded with pollen and
nectar. Little time is lost depositing this load and returning to the
field.
- The beekeeper upon removing frames from such a hive will
notice a considerable amount of new white wax on various parts of the frame
and cells. If the frame is tipped slightly and shook, nectar will drop
from cells freely somewhat like rain. This indicates that a good
honey/nectar flow is in progress.
- When there is no nectar flow, you will notice less
activity at the hive entrance and more of a tendency for the bees to rob
weak hives. If you see great activity at a hive during this period --
bees entering and leaving a hive -- it is most likely being robbed.
Notice that the bees entering the hive do not carry in pollen on their legs
and instead of flying directly to the hive entrance, the entering bees will
circle and often land on the front of the hive and climb down to the
entrance before entering.
- Nectar flows occur whenever there is a plentiful nectar
supply for the bees to gather and it will continue as long as the nectar is
available.
The job of the beekeeper is to anticipate a honey
flow before it begins.
- Know the area and the plants growing in that area which
produce nectar/pollen for bees.
- Know the length of the nectar season -- the amount of
time the plants remain in bloom.
- Know when the plants generally bloom -- this may vary
according to seasonal weather changes.
The time to super
- It is time to add supers to your bee hives after you
have prepared them for spring build up -- the hives have reached sufficient
strength to fill the brood chamber with some honey stores and lots of brood.
- It is time to add supers when the above conditions have
been achieved and a honey flow is just about to begin.
- It is time to add supers if the bees are beginning to
store honey in the brood chamber at the expense of leaving cells for the
queen to lay eggs. Usually the bees will fill the outside frames of
the brood chamber and then start building swarm queen cells. More is
needed in this situation than just adding supers. I would recommend
the following:
Remove all the frames from the brood chamber looking for
the queen. If she is found the job is made easier, however, it is
not necessary. Replace only the frames that have no eggs, larva, or
capped cells in the brood chamber and add drawn comb frames to fill the
rest of the brood chamber. Place a queen excluder above the brood
chamber and a deep box above the queen excluder. You will put the frames
with eggs, larva, and capped brood into this box. Then, shake all
the bees off the frames with brood in front of the landing board and place
them one by one in the box above the queen excluder. In this way you
have accomplished the following:
- Placed the queen below the queen excluder.
- Opened up the brood chamber for her to lay many more eggs
- Retained all the brood that was in the lower brood chamber
- Prevented swarming if you cut out any queen cells that were present
on any of the frames
- And once the capped brood in the box above the queen excluder
have emerged the bees will quickly fill it with honey. You did
not weaken the hive and you have increase the prospect of a good honey
crop from that particular hive. In fact, you will find the bees
eagerly passing thru the queen excluder to be with the brood and many
bees remaining in the lower brood chamber to care for the newly laid
eggs of the queen.
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- It is prudent to add supers if you have a gut feeling that they are
needed. This is usually developed from experience.
- It is important to add supers to any hives moved into a honey producing
area as quickly as possible.
When should the honey crop be removed?
Honey contains moisture. Too much moisture in
the honey will cause it to ferment.
Acceptable honey has no more than 18.6% moisture
content. Under normal conditions capped honey will be less than
this. Thus, you should not remove frames of honey from the bees until the
cells of the frame have mostly been capped. However, some beekeepers who
move bees from location to location remove all honey supers which contain large
amounts of uncapped honey. This honey must be dried and there are
commercial methods to do this.
Honey with a low moisture content can be mixed with a honey
of a higher moisture content to give a good average moisture content which is
done on a large scale when honey producers are mixing honeys from various nectar
sources. This can be done in the extracting process when all honey supers
are extracted without regard to where or what the honey source is and all honey
from the extracting process is pumped into the same holding tanks before being
put into drums. The honey processor will take samples from drum lots and
determine color, moisture, and the possibility of contamination before writing a
check for the honey. It would not be surprising for
a honey processor to reject any honey lot with a high moisture content or a
honey that has been contaminated with chemicals above government standards.
Fixed base honey producers -- those who do not move
bees or those who move bees within their own region or state and extract at one
location, may at times wait until late fall to remove the honey
crop. Honey crops are usually removed by September but some beekeepers
delay until after the first frost. In this case, the beekeeper needs to
warm the honey before extracting and delays the application of any
treatment for mites. It is an individual decision and it must be made by
the beekeeper according to his labor and management needs.
Selling the crop
Honey is a commodity traded and bought just like wheat and
corn. The price is determined on a daily basis and what a producer
gets for his/her crop will depend on what the honey packers/processors are
paying for honey at the time. For example, the price for honey in
October 2002 in bulk sold at $1.30 to $1.75 depending on color and source.
This would have been for honey produced in 2002. The price for honey
in October 2003 in bulk sold at $1.25 to $1.60 again depending on color and
source.
The decision to hold or sell is up to the beekeeper.
A beekeeper in heavy debt usually has no choice to wait for a higher price --
the crop must be sold at the end of the season.